Keep Your Kitty From Getting the Litter Box Blues

House soiling is one of the most common reasons pet cats are surrendered and euthanized. While litter box avoidance can be a medical problem, often times it is a behavioral issue. Litter box type, placement, and maintenance plays a huge factor in our cat's happiness.  If a cat's litter box needs are not met, they will find a more suitable area to eliminate.  Cat behaviorists agree on the following recommendations for litter boxes.

1.) Have at least one more litter box than the number of cats in your household.

This one's pretty simple.  Have one cat?  Then you need to have two litter boxes.  Have five cats?  Then you need to have at least six boxes.  This way, no matter what, there should always be at least one accessible litter box.

2.) Location, location, location!

Now, this does mean line all six litter boxes up next to each other in the basement.  We might count six, but to your cats, any number of boxes lined up together is just one big litter box.  If the cat is fearful of something blocking access to the litter boxes, they will find a safer place to go.  Litter boxes should be dispersed throughout the home, with at least one box on each floor of the home.  We tend to want to hide the boxes away in places where we don't go and they won't be seen, but cats prefer to go where their owner's scent is strong.  Place boxes in quite, but frequently visited, easily accessed areas.  Make sure there are multiple ways in and out of the box so that cats who are using the box cannot be ambushed or trapped, and the box cannot be guarded.  While the cat door that leads to a box in the garage sounds like a great idea, it's not. One thing, however, humans and cats can agree on: no one wants to eat their lunch in the bathroom.  Litter boxes should be placed away from food and water dishes.

3.) Boxes should be BIG!

Most commercially available litter boxes are too small.  Boxes should be at least one and a half times the length of the cat, from the tip of their nose to the base of their tail.  This allows the cat room to turn around and dig in the box. Large storage containers make great litter boxes.

4.) To cover or not to cover?

Most cats prefer an uncovered litter box.  However, if you insist on using a hood, make sure that the box is clear so that a cat using the facilities can easily see any approaching threats.

5.) The litter box buffet.

Most cats prefer sand-like, unscented, clumping cat litter.  However, you can (temporarily) set up multiple boxes next to each other, each with a different type of cat litter to find out what your cat likes.  Fill the box with at least three inches of litter so that it is deep enough for you cat to dig and bury.

6.) The fastidious feline.

Cats are extremely clean creatures.  They will not use a dirty litter box.  Boxes should be scooped at least once daily, more frequently if needed.  Boxes should be dumped every two to four weeks, scrubbed with a mild, non-ammonia based cleanser, and filled with fresh litter.  Completely replace litter boxes every two years. 

7.) Considerations for seniors.

Make special arrangements for older kitties who may have health issues. Arthritic cats may have trouble getting in and out of boxes with high sides, so chose a low sided box or cut an opening into high sided boxes.  Also, if a painful kitty has to travel too far or down a flight of steps to access their litter, they may choose not to use it, so keep the box close by. Diabetic cats and those with kidney disease often urinate large amounts frequently, so you may need to scoop the box more often to keep it clean. 

Keep these guidelines in mind when setting up your cat's environment and they will be much happier and less likely to go outside of the box. It is much easier to try to prevent a behavioral problem than it is to try and fix one once it becomes an issue. And as always, call us for a consultation anytime your pet is having a problem, behavioral or otherwise.

Brushing your Pet’s Teeth can be as easy as 1-2-3!

Regular brushing and professional dental cleanings are just as important for dogs and cats as they are for humans.  Periodontal disease is the number one dental problem in dogs.  Cats often develop cavities below the gum line, causing much pain and a decreased appetite.  As in humans, abscessed teeth or periodontal disease can affect other parts of the body.  In dogs and cats, it can cause heart and kidney disease.

A regular veterinary dental check-up and cleaning under a short-lasting anesthetic is important to your pet’s good health.  Equally important is home dental care, such as brushing the pet’s teeth at least three times per week. 

Number one, this should be fun for you and your pet. Be upbeat and take things slowly. Keep sessions short and positive. Be sure to praise your pet throughout the process. Give yourself a pat on the back, too! You are doing a great thing for your pet!

     1.  First, have your pet get used to the taste of the toothpaste. Pet toothpastes have poultry, malt, or other flavor so your pet will like the taste. Get your pet used to the flavor and consistency of the toothpaste by letting your pet lick some off your finger. Praise your pet when he licks the paste and give a reward (really tasty treat.) If your pet does not like the taste of the toothpaste, you may need to try a different kind. Continue this step for a few days or until your pet looks forward to licking the paste. DO NOT USE HUMAN toothpaste as it will irritate the pet’s stomach.  The next step is to have your pet become comfortable with having something placed against his teeth and gums. Apply a small amount of paste to your finger and gently rub it on one of the large canine teeth in the front of the mouth. These are the easiest teeth for you to get at and will give you some easier practice. Be sure to praise your pet and give a tasty treat or other special reward (e.g., playing ball.)

2.  After your pet is used to the toothpaste, and having something applied to his teeth, get him used to the toothbrush or dental sponge you will be using routinely. We need to get your pet used to the consistency of these items, especially the bristles on a brush. So, let your pet lick the toothpaste off of the brush so he gets used to the texture. Again, praise your pet when he licks the paste and give a really great treat or other reward.  Continue this step for about a week, making sure your pet readily licks the paste off of the brush. 

     3.  Now your pet is used to the toothbrush and toothpaste and having something in his mouth. So the next step is to start brushing. Talk to your pet in a happy voice during the process and praise your pet at the end. Lift the upper lip gently and place the brush at a 45º angle to the gum line. Gently move the brush back and forth. At first, you may just want to brush one or both upper canine teeth. You do not need to brush the inside surface of the teeth (the side towards the tongue). The movement of the tongue over the inside surfaces keeps them relatively free of plaque. Be sure to praise your pet, end on a good note and give a tasty treat or other great reward.

“We encourage people to regularly examine their pet’s teeth for signs of periodontal disease, such as: swollen, red, or bleeding gums, persistent bad breath, loose teeth or the loss of teeth, pus between the gums and teeth, broken teeth, and any unusual growth in the mouth,” said Dr. Eisner (an AAHA member who specializes in veterinary dentistry).  Reluctance to eat, play with chew toys, or drink cold water are warning signs of periodontal or gum disease.

We are a member of the American Animal Hospital Association, an organization of more than 10,000 veterinarians who treat companion animals.  Established in 1933, the association is well-known among veterinarians for its high standards for hospitals and pet health care.

Flea Q & A

What Is The Flea Life Cycle?

Egg Stage

Adult fleas lay eggs on the host animal after taking a blood meal. Those eggs will then readily drop off the animal into the environment as the host moves around. Flea eggs represent 50% of the total population. The flea eggs will hatch within a few days to weeks depending on the temperature and humidity levels. Eggs will develop faster in warmer, more humid climates compared to cool and dry ones. Products that contain an Insect Growth Regulator, or IGR, will prevent eggs from developing properly.

Larva Stage
The flea eggs hatch into larvae, which represent 35% of the flea population. Larvae prefer cool, shady areas such as in-between carpet fibers, underneath furniture, and along base boards. The speed of larval development depends on temperature and humidity levels. With favorable conditions, the larvae will spin cocoons within 5-20 days from hatching from the egg. Just like with flea eggs, pesticides that contain an IGR will prevent the larvae from developing.

Pupae Stage
The pupae stage represents 10% of the flea population. During this stage, the flea is protected by a cocoon with a hardy, sticky shell. There is no product that can penetrate this shell and kill the flea at this stage. With optimal conditions, 75°F with 78% humidity, adult fleas will begin to emerge in about 8-13 days. However, if conditions are not right, the flea can stay protected in this stage for much longer, up to a year! The flea will wait for the right conditions and stimulation from the host, such as vibrations, increased carbon dioxide levels, and body heat, before hatching. This is part of the reason why year round, quality flea prevention is so important!

Adult Stage
The adult stage of the flea life cycle represents 5% of the actual population. Immediately after hatching from the cocoon, the adult will seek out a host for its first blood meal. Within 20-24 hour after that blood meal egg production begins. Female fleas can lay 40-50 eggs per day, and on average may live between 2-3 months. That means fleas can lay up to 5,000 eggs in their lifetime!

What Should You Know About Fleas?

How do I know if my pet has fleas?
Fleas are small, brown, parasitic insects that, unless your pet is severely infested, you may not see. Many cats are such terrific groomers that they often swallow the fleas and you may never see the evidence. A typical sign of fleas is “flea dirt,” which is the fleas’ feces.  Flea dirt looks like pepper flakes sprinkled in your pet’s fur. When wiped with a damp cloth or paper towel, it can appear reddish in color since it consists of the digested blood that the fleas ingest from your pet to survive. If you find just one adult flea, there could be hundreds more in your pet’s environment.

How did my pet get fleas?
Although your pet may not be outdoors often, any area that has wildlife, such as foxes, mice, rabbits, opossums, skunks, raccoons, etc., may have fleas in the environment. Your pet can pick up fleas simply by walking around the back yard, even if it’s just to use the bathroom. Indoor only cats can get fleas from mice they may catch in the home. Fleas and flea eggs may stick to your shoes and pant legs when you walk through your yard and you can track them inside. As the weather cools, fleas will also seek out the warmth of your house, which is the perfect temperature for fleas year-round. An infestation can be caused by a single flea, who can produce up to 5,000 eggs in its lifetime.

How do I get rid of fleas?
It is important to treat all pets in the household with a quality flea product. Again, whether your pets are indoors or outdoors does not matter. Even if you see just one flea, that adult flea only represents 5% of the flea population, and that one flea can lay thousands of eggs. Left untreated, one flea can easily turn into an infestation. Regular flea prevention is recommended versus treating only when you see fleas on your pets. This is one situation where the saying “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” rings very true. It is much easier to prevent your pet from getting fleas than it is to treat fleas once they are in your home.
Successfully treating a flea infestation not only requires treatment for your pet, but also your pet’s environment. Although eliminating fleas from the environment may be difficult, it is possible. We recommend using a pesticide spray containing an Insect Growth Regulator (IGR,) such as Knockout E.S., versus flea bombs. When you set off a flea bomb, it releases a cloud of powder up into the air, which will then settle on top of any furniture in the room and may not completely cover the entire area of the room. Fleas prefer the cool, dark areas of your home, such as under the furniture and along base boards. A spray can be used to get underneath and in between all the areas that fleas prefer. It is important that the product contains an IGR in order to control the immature flea population. A pesticide will kill adult fleas, while an IGR will prevent flea eggs and larvae from developing into adult fleas.
Prior to treating with a pesticide, you will want to physically remove as many fleas as possible by meticulously cleaning. Wash all bedding in hot water, and thoroughly vacuum all floors. If your vacuum has a hose attachment, vacuum the furniture and under cushions as well. Be sure to empty your vacuum’s bag or collection canister immediately, outside away from the house, as any fleas you pick up may survive and crawl back out of the bag. It can be helpful to wash the vacuum filter after use, as well. In the case of a severe infestation, it may be beneficial to call a professional exterminator.
When fleas are introduced to a pesticide, they go through an excitatory state preceding death. The pesticides effect their nervous system and as the chemicals reach the fleas’ brain, they become hyper-excited and agitated. It may look as if your flea infestation is getting worse as the fleas become more active, however, this indicates the fleas are actually dying off.
If you find yourself with a flea problem, you are not alone! Flea infestations, unfortunately, are common for pet owners. Having fleas in your home does not mean that you have a “dirty” home, or you are a “bad” pet owner. A flea infestation can be an educational experience, and teaches the value in quality flea prevention.

Are fleas dangerous to my pet?
Fleas do have the potential to cause a variety of health problems. They can transmit a parasitic bacteria called mycoplasma, which attacks a pet’s red blood cells. Fleas are an intermediate host for tapeworm, an intestinal parasite. If your pet happens to swallow a flea while grooming, they can become infected with tapeworm. Fleas take several blood meals a day, feeding for 3-4 hours at a time. Pets with heavy burdens of fleas, especially young and small animals, can develop a potentially life threatening anemia. Flea Allergy Dermatitis is a skin infection caused by flea bites. Symptoms of FAD include severe itchiness, redness, bumps, crusts, and pimples on the skin, and hair loss. Fleas can also transmit the plague and Cat Scratch Disease, which are known to effect people. Even if fleas do not make your pet sick, they can lead to extreme discomfort.

Can I get fleas from my pet?
Fleas' preference for a host are dogs, cats, rabbits, ferrets, and other animals. Although they will bite humans while searching for a meal, they typically do not live on people. 

Environmental Enrichment for Your Cat

Most indoor cats in the United States live under-enriched lives. While they are often cared for and loved, their natural instincts are often ignored. When keeping cats as pets, consideration must be given to a cat’s natural instincts and behaviors. It’s important to know that under-enriched (bored) cats often become stressed, which can lead to behavioral problems such as urine marking, house soiling, fighting among household cats, aggression, and excessive grooming.

A recent study showed that even well-fed free roaming cats spend an average of 3.6 hours hunting. That’s 15% of their day that they hunt, not because they need food, but because that’s what cats do! So, it’s going to benefit your cat (and you) to enrich your cat’s indoor environment. Proper enrichment should take into consideration all of the cat’s senses: sight, hearing, smell, taste, and touch. An average cat spends 9.5 hours sleeping (~40%) and 5.3 hours (22%) resting.  Note that resting is different than sleeping.  When a cat is resting, it is observing its environment using different senses including sight, hearing, and smell.

Each cat in the household should have adequate areas to rest and hide within its core area. The spaces should be high enough and/or sheltered enough that the cat can feel safe. A good rule of thumb is to have two types of resting spaces (i.e., one sheltered, one high) per cat in each area of the home. These spaces can be as complex as a floor-to-ceiling cat tree or as simple as a cardboard box.

A cat’s sense of smell can be stimulated with catnip, cat grasses, and pheromones (Feliway.)   Another way to increase a cat’s olfactory and visual enrichment is to walk him on a harness. While most cats do not take to harness walking initially, when they are able to associate it with the reward of going outside, they often adjust.

Scratching is a normal, and necessary, cat behavior.  When a cat is scratching it is leaving a visual and scent signal, as well as conditioning the nails and removing the cuticle, and stretching the forelimbs.  Some cats prefer vertical surfaces, while others may prefer horizontal.  Scratching posts also come made with different materials, such as carpet, cardboard, or rope and your cat may prefer one texture over another.  Be sure to provide your cat with plenty of designated scratching areas to allow an appropriate outlet for this natural behavior in order to save your furniture.

Most indoor cats do not have adequate opportunity to hunt. In order to harness the cat’s natural desire to hunt, it is strongly recommended that he hunt or “work” for his food. This can be accomplished by dividing the cat’s daily ration and feeding him in multiple places in the house; hiding food under the couch, coffee table, rugs, etc. and feeding him from interactive food toys such as the “Twist ‘N Treat,” the "Fish Bowl," or the “Egg•Cersizer” (PetSafe).

Structured play sessions and training sessions (yes, cats CAN be trained to do tricks!) can also be very beneficial in that they help to dissipate energy and direct the cat’s natural predatory behavior toward an appropriate target. Since cats get bored easily, owners should keep a wide variety of toys on had and rotate them so that the cat receives a different set of toys every few days. Toys don’t have to be expensive or high tech.

Examples of cat toys include:

 ♦ a ping pong ball in a bathtub or box
 ♦ plastic rings from milk jugs
 ♦ feather dancers
 ♦ toys on wands
 ♦ Panic Mouse
 ♦ Feline Frolic
 ♦ balled up pieces of paper
 ♦ a laser pointer*
 ♦ catnip mice/balls
 ♦ balls with bells
 ♦ aquarium stocked with fish
 ♦ toys that move or make noises




 *One word of caution with laser pointers. Some cats may become very aggressive when playing with these toys, especially if they are not able to “finish” the predatory sequence and “kill” something. To remedy this, owners should always point the laser at a toy that the cat can “kill” before they turn the toy off.

With proper attention to the environment, indoor cats can live as enriched a life as an outdoor cat while enjoying the health benefits and longevity of an indoor cat. What will you do with your cat today?

Scents and Sensitivity: Dogs Know When We’re Happy or Angry

Science is proving what pet owners have long believed: Dogs understand what we're feeling. Specifically, dogs can recognize the difference between a happy and an angry human face, a study published Thursday in Current Biology suggests.

It's the first research to show definitively that dogs are sensitive to our facial expressions, says coauthor Ludwig Huber, head of comparative cognition at Messerli Research Institute at the University of Veterinary Medicine, Vienna.

In the Austrian study, 20 pet dogs of various breeds and sizes were taught to play a computer game through a series of exercises. In the first, the dogs were shown two touch screens, one with a circle and one with a square. Through trial and error, they learned that a treat would appear if they chose the right geometrical figure.

Eleven of the 20 dogs were able to catch on to rules of the game and make it to the next phase, where they were shown photos of faces. Half the dogs were rewarded for picking a happy expression and half for choosing an angry expression. The interesting catch: the dogs were shown only the upper half or the lower half of a face. 

It was easier to teach the dogs to choose a happy expression than an angry one, suggesting the dogs do indeed understand the meaning behind the expression, Huber says.

As a test, the dogs were then were presented with:

the same half of the faces they saw during the training, but from different people
the other half of the faces used in training
the other half of new faces
the left half of the faces used in training
In the vast majority of cases the dogs chose the right answer 70 to 100 percent of the time.

Dogs who had been trained to recognize an expression of anger or happiness on the upper part of a face could identify the same expression when shown only the lower part, and vice versa, Huber says, adding “the only possible explanation is that they recall from memory of everyday life how a whole human face looks when happy or angry.”

Dog owners know their pets not only recognize emotions but also feel empathy.

Delilah, a 3-year-old Chihuahua, always seems to know when her owner Eva Shure is having a bad day.

Delilah knows when her owner is having a bad day.
Making eye contact and cocking her head to the right, the little dog will stare at Shure's face as if trying to assess her feelings. “It’s weird, I can see her thinking and processing,” says Shure, a 35-year-old New York City business owner. “I’ll say, yeah, it’s not a great day and she’ll come up and sit next to me.”

Beverly Levreault, 57, says her 6-year-old Australian Cattle Dog mix is always tuned in to her moods. “If I’m not feeling well, like when I have the flu, Lacey is definitely lower key and will not leave my side, ” says Levreault, a graphic designer from Williamstown, New York. “If I take her for a walk, she’s not as rambunctious as she usually is.”

Lynette Whiteman says she’s not sure that her 5-year-old Yorkie-Maltese cross is using facial expressions to gauge how she feels. “But she definitely reads my emotions,” says the 58-year-old from Toms River, New Jersey. “I run a therapy dog program and the dogs are just amazing. They go into a room and immediately pick out the person who needs help.”

Behavioral experts say the new findings, while important, wouldn’t surprise anyone with an intimate knowledge of dogs.

Coco and Lynettte
"This new work continues to build the case for just how sensitive dogs are to our subtle behaviors,” says Dr. Brian Hare, chief scientific officer at Dognition and an associate professor of evolutionary anthropology at Duke University. “This is the strongest evidence yet that dogs are even reading our facial expressions.”

That sensitivity may be the result of generations of selective breeding for a true partner, says Dr. Carlo Siracusa, director of the behavior service at the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine. “We have selected animals that are able to perceive our emotions and communicate with us at a level that no other animal can,” Siracusa says.

Dogs may not talk, but they are very good communicators, says Dr. Nicholas Dodman, a professor in the department of clinical sciences at the Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University and director of the animal behavior clinic at Cummings.

“Just as we are masters of the spoken word, dogs are experts at reading body language,” Dodman says.

“It’s almost impossible to hide your feelings from a dog.”

Turns out, reading facial expressions isn’t the only thing dogs have in common with us.

They can be bitten by the computer gaming bug. “They can really become freaks for it,” Huber says with a chuckle. “They don’t want to stop playing. It’s incredible. They’ll play till they are exhausted and fall asleep.”

Source: http://www.today.com/pets/dogs-know-when-were-happy-or-angry-2D80489190

E-Cigarettes and Pets Do Not Mix

E-cigarettes are sparking heated debates as lawmakers, medical professionals and industry grapple over the relative safety of the nicotine-delivering devices. But for pet owners, there is no debate. Nicotine poses a serious threat of poisoning to dogs and cats, and e-cigarettes back a powerful punch. The problem is that many pet owners don’t realize it. 

Pet Poison Helpline has encountered a sharp uptick in calls concerning cases of nicotine poisoning in pets that ingested e-cigarettes or liquid nicotine refill solution. In fact, over the past six months, cases have more than doubled, indicating that along with their increased popularity, the nicotine-delivering devices are becoming a more significant threat to pets. While dogs account for the majority of cases, nicotine in e-cigarettes and liquid refill solution is toxic to cats as well. “We’ve handled cases for pets poisoned by eating traditional cigarettes or tobacco products containing nicotine for many years,” said Ahna Brutlag, DVM, MS, DABT, DABVT and associate director of veterinary services at Pet Poison Helpline. “But, as the use of e-cigarettes has become more widespread, our call volume for cases involving them has increased considerably.” In an effort to educate pet owners before an accident occurs, Pet Poison Helpline offers this important safety information. 

What are e-cigarettes? 

E-cigarettes are simply another way of delivering nicotine. Designed to resemble traditional cigarettes, the battery operated devices atomize liquid that contains nicotine, turning it into a vapor that can be inhaled. The most recent craze is flavored e-cigarettes, which are available in an array of flavors from peppermint to banana cream pie, and everything in between. 

What makes e-cigarettes toxic to pets? 

The aroma of liquid nicotine in e-cigarettes can be alluring to dogs, and flavored e-cigarettes could be even more enticing. The issue is the amount of nicotine in each cartridge, which is between 6 mg and 24 mg. So, each cartridge contains the nicotine equivalent of one to two traditional cigarettes, but purchase packs of five to 100 cartridges multiply that amount many times over, posing a serious threat to pets who chew them. For example, if a single cartridge is ingested by a 50-pound dog, clinical signs of poisoning are likely to occur. But if a dog that weighs 10 pounds ingests the same amount, death is possible. Dogs of any weight that ingest multiple e-cigarette cartridges are at risk for severe poisoning and even death. In addition to the toxicity of nicotine, the actual e-cigarette casing can result in oral injury when chewed, and can cause gastrointestinal upset with the risk of a foreign body obstruction. Some e-cigarette users buy vials of liquid nicotine solution for refilling e-cigarette cartridges. The solution is commonly referred to as “e-liquid” or “e-juice.” The small bottles hold enough liquid to fill multiple cartridges, meaning they contain a considerable amount of nicotine. Pet owners should be very careful to store them out of the reach of pets. 

What happens when e-cigarettes are ingested by pets?

Nicotine poisoning in pets has a rapid onset of symptoms – generally within 15 to 60 minutes following ingestion. Symptoms for dogs and cats include vomiting, diarrhea, agitation, elevations in heart rate and respiration rate, depression, tremors, ataxia, weakness, seizures, cyanosis, coma, and cardiac arrest. 

What to do if a pet is exposed? 

Because nicotine poisoning can happen so rapidly following ingestion, prompt veterinary care can mean the difference between life and death for a pet. Home care is not generally possible with nicotine exposure due to the severity of poisoning, even in small doses. Take action immediately by contacting a veterinarian or Pet Poison Helpline at 1-800-213-6680. As always, prevention is the best medicine. E-cigarettes, cartridges and vials of refilling solution should always be kept out of the reach of pets and children. 

SOURCE: http://www.petpoisonhelpline.com/2014/09/e-cigarettes-pets-mix/   Published on September 2, 2014