Preventative Care for Gingivitis and Periodontal Disease

Article by: Marian Brown

   

According to the American Veterinary Dental Society (AVDS), eighty percent of dogs and seventy percent of cats have periodontal disease by the age of three! Alarming statistics? Yes, and it is known that proper dental care could increase their life by two to five years.

Dental care in dogs and cats has become quite common over the last six years. The AVDS has even selected February as National Pet Dental Health Month. Like humans, dog teeth and gums are also susceptible to the same oral health problems – Gingivitis and Periodontal disease.

Unlike humans, animals rarely get cavities. This is because cavities are primarily caused by the high sugar content of the human diet. Periodontal disease affects both human and mammals alike.

Periodontal disease is caused by bacteria and plaque which attach the soft gum tissue of the mouth. The first stage of periodontal disease is gingivitis. This is very common. In this stage, the bacteria have mixed with saliva and formed plaque. The plaque adheres to the teeth and hardens, forming tartar and calculus. These tartar deposits irritate the gum tissue and cause inflammation, swelling and infection. It is this stage that gingivitis is most notable. 

Early warning signs of gingivitis are sensitive gum tissue, redness or bleeding gums, trouble eating/chewing and bad breath. Yes, the dreaded "doggy breath"! The breath may take on a sulfur (rotting eggs) odor from the by-products of the bacteria in the mouth. This is often the first sign of gingivitis and serious dental problems.

If caught at this stage, gingivitis is treatable. A thorough dental exam and cleaning most likely will be needed. Many dogs will also most likely need to be put under anesthesia. If gingivitis is not treated, it will progress to periodontal disease. Periodontal disease is not treatable. At this stage, there is irreversible bone loss and tooth damage. Roots are also weakened and the animal may experience loose teeth and teeth that simply fall out. Animals may also begin to lose weight. This can lead to other problems associated with improper nutritional intake. Dental treatment will be needed and may result in the extraction of teeth. Again, this will need to be done under anesthesia.

Additionally, the bacteria and infection in the mouth may spread through the bloodstream to cause heart, kidney or liver disease. These diseases can cause serious damage to the organs and lead to premature death.

Periodontal disease is preventable. Like with humans, dogs need regular dental care. The first step is to have your pet examined for existing problems. If needed, your veterinarian can do a dental cleaning. Next, develop an at-home dental care program including a proper diet and mix of dry and wet foods. Diet alone can not prevent dental problems.

Most sources recommend brushing the teeth with pet toothpaste on a gauze or small pet toothbrush. This is the optimal program. If you choose to do this, be sure to select a toothpaste made for pets, avoid fluoridated products and pastes with sugars as one of the top ingredients. Brushing or even wiping the teeth with gauze will be a learning and training experience. With dogs, the process is estimated to take between 8 to 16 weeks before the animal is comfortable with the experience. Start slowly and build each day.

A more practical option for many pet owners may be an oral hygiene solution. There are now pet oral hygiene solutions on the market that can be added to pets’ drinking water. These are much easier and more convenient to use and are formulated for animals. Owner compliance with these programs, unlike with daily brushing, is much higher. As the pet drinks, the solution works to repel and retard the plaque and eliminate the bacteria and bacteria by-products. They are odorless and colorless.

Another helpful "trick" is to try one of the healthy dental treats on the market. They help remove the forming tarter. Be sure to check the label for ingredients -- some treats are really "tricks" in that they contain sugars, dyes and other questionable substances.

Once an at-home program is established, be sure to follow-up with regular veterinary exams.

Arthritis: A Pain in the Mutt!

Arthritis, also known as osteoarthritis or degenerative joint disease, is a progressive, inflammatory joint disease commonly seen in middle aged and senior pets.  This painful condition can negatively affect a pet and diminish their quality of life, but there are many treatment options available to help keep your pet comfortable, and may even slow the progression of the disease.

Arthritis develops when the joint cartilage, or cushioning between bones, start to break down and degenerate.  It can be a primary or secondary condition.  Primary arthritis is usually seen in older pets from normal wear and tear on the joints as they age.  Secondary arthritis is an effect from another disease, condition, or joint injury - such as Lyme disease, hip dysplasia, or a torn ligament in the knee.  Some breeds, like Labrador Retrievers, German Shepherds and Maine Coons, may have a genetic predisposition for developing arthritis.  Pets who are extremely active, such as working or sporting dogs, and pets who are overweight are also at a higher risk for developing arthritis.

Signs of arthritis can range from very subtle to very obvious.  The earlier the condition is caught, the more easily it can be treated and the greater the possibility that the progression can be slowed.  This is why it is so important to consult your veterinarian any time you notice a behavior change in your pet.  Early signs of arthritis are often written off as normal signs of aging.   We often hear, “Max doesn’t want to play fetch for as long as he used to.  He would really rather just sleep all day, but he is 9 years old and starting to show his age.”  Something we have to remember - old age is not a disease.  Not wanting to play with a favorite toy, slower to go up steps, or reluctance to jump on or off furniture could all indicate you pet may be suffering from arthritis pain.  More obvious signs include joint stiffness, difficulty getting up from laying down, limping or lameness.  Once your pet starts to show these signs, the disease is usually progressed to a more advanced stage.  Since cats tend to be less active than dogs to begin with and are masters at hiding signs of illness, there may be other signs that they might show.  For example, they may start to have accidents outside of the litter box because it’s too difficult or painful for them to jump into the box.

There are measures that can be taken to prevent arthritis.  If you have a pet that is known to have a higher risk for arthritis, starting joint supplements when they are young, before the development of arthritis begins, can be extremely helpful.  Glucosamine supplements help to keep joints lubricated, have anti-inflammatory benefits, and help to repair damaged cartilage.  Fish oils are another natural anti-inflammatory and have been shown to help relieve arthritis pain.  These nutritional supplements are safe, with no side effects, and can delay the development and progression of arthritis.  Another important factor is keeping your pet at a healthy weight.  Over 50% of the pet population is overweight or obese, and 95% of those pet owners do not believe their pet is an unhealthy weight.  Exams with their veterinarian at least once a year are important to monitor changes in weight and body condition.  There are statistics from studies proving that pets who are kept lean need less medication to control arthritis pain, and do not need to start pain management as early as their heavier counterparts.  Regular exercise also helps keep joints flexible and maintain range of motion.

Most of the time, early arthritis can be managed with joint supplements and natural anti-inflammatories, such as fish oils.  These supplements are safe to use long term and do not carry the side effects associated with the pharmaceuticals used to treat arthritis pain.  The progression of arthritis can be slowed, but not completely stopped.  Therefore, at some point, a pain medication needs to be added in order to adequately control your pet’s discomfort.  NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs) provide pain relief by reducing the inflammation in their joints. Human NSAIDs (ibuprofen, aspirin, Tylenol) are NOT safe to give to animals.  They have unique metabolisms and these medications can cause GI ulcers and bleeding, liver problems, and kidney problems.  There are NSAIDs specifically developed for cats and dogs that are much safer than human medications, but still carry risks of some side effects.  Vomiting, diarrhea, and inappetence, though rare, can occur.  If these signs are seen, the medication should be stopped and switching to another brand should be considered.  Since these medications are metabolized by the liver and excreted by the kidneys, these internal organs can also be affected.  Routine blood work (every 6 months) is required to closely monitor that these organs are functioning properly.  More potent, opioid-like pain medications can be added in conjunction with joint supplements and NSAIDs for severely painful patients.  Some pets with arthritis only need to take pain medication if they have an active day, while others will need daily medication to keep them comfortable.

Cold, rainy weather can aggravate arthritis pain, so it is import to provide your pet with a warm, comfortable bed to rest in.  Pet steps or ramps to help them get up on furniture or into the car can also be helpful.  It is important to keep them active, but know their limitations. There are also alternative remedies (acupuncture, chiropractic care, stem cell therapy, laser therapy, massage) that are now being studied more closely and may help to provide relief.

While there is no cure for arthritis, there are many options to keep arthritic pets comfortable.  Living pain free is important for your pet’s well-being and quality of life.   You may not realize how much pain your pet was in until after you see how much more active and younger they seem once treatment is started.  As always, if you notice any changes in your pet’s attitude, activity, or behavior, even if it may seem like it’s not worth mentioning, please don’t hesitate to at least give us a call and ask if it is something that the veterinarian should check out.  Your pet will appreciate it.

Becoming a Therapy Dog

Written by Russel P.

For a dog to become a Therapy Dog, the dog must be friendly and obedient and pass the Canine Good Citizen (CGC) test and also the Therapy Dog International (TDI) test.

I started training with Benji, my Yellow Lab, when he was a puppy.  At the age of 1 1/2, I took him to Garrow Canine training in Charleroi, PA.  We went through Basic, Intermediate, and Advance Obedience classes.  After completing these classes in May 2013, Benji passed the Canine Good Citizens (CGC) test that is given by the American Kennel Club (AKC).  A dog does not have to be a pure breed to take the CGC test.  After passing the CGC test, it took a few months of training to get him use to being around medical equipment, such as walkers, crutches, and wheel chairs, along with loud noises and being around a lot of people.  This is all part of the Therapy Dog International (TDI) testing requirements.  For instance, I would take him to Wal-Mart and walk in front of the store to get him use to all the noises and people.  I went to the Goodwill store and picked up a walker and some crutches to use around the house so he would get used to being around such things.  In November 2014, he became a Certified Therapy Dog after passing the TDI test. 

Benji has made over 100 visits to three local person care homes, the local hospital, and also has made Hospice visits.  There are two things you can count on when you are a Therapy Dog Team (meaning Benji and myself).  On the first visit, you see the residence faces light up for joy when you and your walk in.  You will be hooked, wanting to come back again and again to see the happiness in some of these people.  The other thing you will notice is that after a few visits, everyone will know your dog's name.  They may not remember my name, but they do remember Benji's.   They so look forward to his visits.  You will hear such things as: "Oh Benji, I just love you."  "Don't stop coming to see me."  "You make my day, Benji."  You will find that this is not only rewarding to these residents, but to you and your dog.

All the information you need to work towards becoming a Therapy Dog Team is on these websites: 

American Kennel Club - www.akc.org

Therapy Dog International - www.tdi-dog.org or phone 973-252-9800

Keep Your Kitty From Getting the Litter Box Blues

House soiling is one of the most common reasons pet cats are surrendered and euthanized. While litter box avoidance can be a medical problem, often times it is a behavioral issue. Litter box type, placement, and maintenance plays a huge factor in our cat's happiness.  If a cat's litter box needs are not met, they will find a more suitable area to eliminate.  Cat behaviorists agree on the following recommendations for litter boxes.

1.) Have at least one more litter box than the number of cats in your household.

This one's pretty simple.  Have one cat?  Then you need to have two litter boxes.  Have five cats?  Then you need to have at least six boxes.  This way, no matter what, there should always be at least one accessible litter box.

2.) Location, location, location!

Now, this does mean line all six litter boxes up next to each other in the basement.  We might count six, but to your cats, any number of boxes lined up together is just one big litter box.  If the cat is fearful of something blocking access to the litter boxes, they will find a safer place to go.  Litter boxes should be dispersed throughout the home, with at least one box on each floor of the home.  We tend to want to hide the boxes away in places where we don't go and they won't be seen, but cats prefer to go where their owner's scent is strong.  Place boxes in quite, but frequently visited, easily accessed areas.  Make sure there are multiple ways in and out of the box so that cats who are using the box cannot be ambushed or trapped, and the box cannot be guarded.  While the cat door that leads to a box in the garage sounds like a great idea, it's not. One thing, however, humans and cats can agree on: no one wants to eat their lunch in the bathroom.  Litter boxes should be placed away from food and water dishes.

3.) Boxes should be BIG!

Most commercially available litter boxes are too small.  Boxes should be at least one and a half times the length of the cat, from the tip of their nose to the base of their tail.  This allows the cat room to turn around and dig in the box. Large storage containers make great litter boxes.

4.) To cover or not to cover?

Most cats prefer an uncovered litter box.  However, if you insist on using a hood, make sure that the box is clear so that a cat using the facilities can easily see any approaching threats.

5.) The litter box buffet.

Most cats prefer sand-like, unscented, clumping cat litter.  However, you can (temporarily) set up multiple boxes next to each other, each with a different type of cat litter to find out what your cat likes.  Fill the box with at least three inches of litter so that it is deep enough for you cat to dig and bury.

6.) The fastidious feline.

Cats are extremely clean creatures.  They will not use a dirty litter box.  Boxes should be scooped at least once daily, more frequently if needed.  Boxes should be dumped every two to four weeks, scrubbed with a mild, non-ammonia based cleanser, and filled with fresh litter.  Completely replace litter boxes every two years. 

7.) Considerations for seniors.

Make special arrangements for older kitties who may have health issues. Arthritic cats may have trouble getting in and out of boxes with high sides, so chose a low sided box or cut an opening into high sided boxes.  Also, if a painful kitty has to travel too far or down a flight of steps to access their litter, they may choose not to use it, so keep the box close by. Diabetic cats and those with kidney disease often urinate large amounts frequently, so you may need to scoop the box more often to keep it clean. 

Keep these guidelines in mind when setting up your cat's environment and they will be much happier and less likely to go outside of the box. It is much easier to try to prevent a behavioral problem than it is to try and fix one once it becomes an issue. And as always, call us for a consultation anytime your pet is having a problem, behavioral or otherwise.

Brushing your Pet’s Teeth can be as easy as 1-2-3!

Regular brushing and professional dental cleanings are just as important for dogs and cats as they are for humans.  Periodontal disease is the number one dental problem in dogs.  Cats often develop cavities below the gum line, causing much pain and a decreased appetite.  As in humans, abscessed teeth or periodontal disease can affect other parts of the body.  In dogs and cats, it can cause heart and kidney disease.

A regular veterinary dental check-up and cleaning under a short-lasting anesthetic is important to your pet’s good health.  Equally important is home dental care, such as brushing the pet’s teeth at least three times per week. 

Number one, this should be fun for you and your pet. Be upbeat and take things slowly. Keep sessions short and positive. Be sure to praise your pet throughout the process. Give yourself a pat on the back, too! You are doing a great thing for your pet!

     1.  First, have your pet get used to the taste of the toothpaste. Pet toothpastes have poultry, malt, or other flavor so your pet will like the taste. Get your pet used to the flavor and consistency of the toothpaste by letting your pet lick some off your finger. Praise your pet when he licks the paste and give a reward (really tasty treat.) If your pet does not like the taste of the toothpaste, you may need to try a different kind. Continue this step for a few days or until your pet looks forward to licking the paste. DO NOT USE HUMAN toothpaste as it will irritate the pet’s stomach.  The next step is to have your pet become comfortable with having something placed against his teeth and gums. Apply a small amount of paste to your finger and gently rub it on one of the large canine teeth in the front of the mouth. These are the easiest teeth for you to get at and will give you some easier practice. Be sure to praise your pet and give a tasty treat or other special reward (e.g., playing ball.)

2.  After your pet is used to the toothpaste, and having something applied to his teeth, get him used to the toothbrush or dental sponge you will be using routinely. We need to get your pet used to the consistency of these items, especially the bristles on a brush. So, let your pet lick the toothpaste off of the brush so he gets used to the texture. Again, praise your pet when he licks the paste and give a really great treat or other reward.  Continue this step for about a week, making sure your pet readily licks the paste off of the brush. 

     3.  Now your pet is used to the toothbrush and toothpaste and having something in his mouth. So the next step is to start brushing. Talk to your pet in a happy voice during the process and praise your pet at the end. Lift the upper lip gently and place the brush at a 45º angle to the gum line. Gently move the brush back and forth. At first, you may just want to brush one or both upper canine teeth. You do not need to brush the inside surface of the teeth (the side towards the tongue). The movement of the tongue over the inside surfaces keeps them relatively free of plaque. Be sure to praise your pet, end on a good note and give a tasty treat or other great reward.

“We encourage people to regularly examine their pet’s teeth for signs of periodontal disease, such as: swollen, red, or bleeding gums, persistent bad breath, loose teeth or the loss of teeth, pus between the gums and teeth, broken teeth, and any unusual growth in the mouth,” said Dr. Eisner (an AAHA member who specializes in veterinary dentistry).  Reluctance to eat, play with chew toys, or drink cold water are warning signs of periodontal or gum disease.

We are a member of the American Animal Hospital Association, an organization of more than 10,000 veterinarians who treat companion animals.  Established in 1933, the association is well-known among veterinarians for its high standards for hospitals and pet health care.

Flea Q & A

What Is The Flea Life Cycle?

Egg Stage

Adult fleas lay eggs on the host animal after taking a blood meal. Those eggs will then readily drop off the animal into the environment as the host moves around. Flea eggs represent 50% of the total population. The flea eggs will hatch within a few days to weeks depending on the temperature and humidity levels. Eggs will develop faster in warmer, more humid climates compared to cool and dry ones. Products that contain an Insect Growth Regulator, or IGR, will prevent eggs from developing properly.

Larva Stage
The flea eggs hatch into larvae, which represent 35% of the flea population. Larvae prefer cool, shady areas such as in-between carpet fibers, underneath furniture, and along base boards. The speed of larval development depends on temperature and humidity levels. With favorable conditions, the larvae will spin cocoons within 5-20 days from hatching from the egg. Just like with flea eggs, pesticides that contain an IGR will prevent the larvae from developing.

Pupae Stage
The pupae stage represents 10% of the flea population. During this stage, the flea is protected by a cocoon with a hardy, sticky shell. There is no product that can penetrate this shell and kill the flea at this stage. With optimal conditions, 75°F with 78% humidity, adult fleas will begin to emerge in about 8-13 days. However, if conditions are not right, the flea can stay protected in this stage for much longer, up to a year! The flea will wait for the right conditions and stimulation from the host, such as vibrations, increased carbon dioxide levels, and body heat, before hatching. This is part of the reason why year round, quality flea prevention is so important!

Adult Stage
The adult stage of the flea life cycle represents 5% of the actual population. Immediately after hatching from the cocoon, the adult will seek out a host for its first blood meal. Within 20-24 hour after that blood meal egg production begins. Female fleas can lay 40-50 eggs per day, and on average may live between 2-3 months. That means fleas can lay up to 5,000 eggs in their lifetime!

What Should You Know About Fleas?

How do I know if my pet has fleas?
Fleas are small, brown, parasitic insects that, unless your pet is severely infested, you may not see. Many cats are such terrific groomers that they often swallow the fleas and you may never see the evidence. A typical sign of fleas is “flea dirt,” which is the fleas’ feces.  Flea dirt looks like pepper flakes sprinkled in your pet’s fur. When wiped with a damp cloth or paper towel, it can appear reddish in color since it consists of the digested blood that the fleas ingest from your pet to survive. If you find just one adult flea, there could be hundreds more in your pet’s environment.

How did my pet get fleas?
Although your pet may not be outdoors often, any area that has wildlife, such as foxes, mice, rabbits, opossums, skunks, raccoons, etc., may have fleas in the environment. Your pet can pick up fleas simply by walking around the back yard, even if it’s just to use the bathroom. Indoor only cats can get fleas from mice they may catch in the home. Fleas and flea eggs may stick to your shoes and pant legs when you walk through your yard and you can track them inside. As the weather cools, fleas will also seek out the warmth of your house, which is the perfect temperature for fleas year-round. An infestation can be caused by a single flea, who can produce up to 5,000 eggs in its lifetime.

How do I get rid of fleas?
It is important to treat all pets in the household with a quality flea product. Again, whether your pets are indoors or outdoors does not matter. Even if you see just one flea, that adult flea only represents 5% of the flea population, and that one flea can lay thousands of eggs. Left untreated, one flea can easily turn into an infestation. Regular flea prevention is recommended versus treating only when you see fleas on your pets. This is one situation where the saying “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” rings very true. It is much easier to prevent your pet from getting fleas than it is to treat fleas once they are in your home.
Successfully treating a flea infestation not only requires treatment for your pet, but also your pet’s environment. Although eliminating fleas from the environment may be difficult, it is possible. We recommend using a pesticide spray containing an Insect Growth Regulator (IGR,) such as Knockout E.S., versus flea bombs. When you set off a flea bomb, it releases a cloud of powder up into the air, which will then settle on top of any furniture in the room and may not completely cover the entire area of the room. Fleas prefer the cool, dark areas of your home, such as under the furniture and along base boards. A spray can be used to get underneath and in between all the areas that fleas prefer. It is important that the product contains an IGR in order to control the immature flea population. A pesticide will kill adult fleas, while an IGR will prevent flea eggs and larvae from developing into adult fleas.
Prior to treating with a pesticide, you will want to physically remove as many fleas as possible by meticulously cleaning. Wash all bedding in hot water, and thoroughly vacuum all floors. If your vacuum has a hose attachment, vacuum the furniture and under cushions as well. Be sure to empty your vacuum’s bag or collection canister immediately, outside away from the house, as any fleas you pick up may survive and crawl back out of the bag. It can be helpful to wash the vacuum filter after use, as well. In the case of a severe infestation, it may be beneficial to call a professional exterminator.
When fleas are introduced to a pesticide, they go through an excitatory state preceding death. The pesticides effect their nervous system and as the chemicals reach the fleas’ brain, they become hyper-excited and agitated. It may look as if your flea infestation is getting worse as the fleas become more active, however, this indicates the fleas are actually dying off.
If you find yourself with a flea problem, you are not alone! Flea infestations, unfortunately, are common for pet owners. Having fleas in your home does not mean that you have a “dirty” home, or you are a “bad” pet owner. A flea infestation can be an educational experience, and teaches the value in quality flea prevention.

Are fleas dangerous to my pet?
Fleas do have the potential to cause a variety of health problems. They can transmit a parasitic bacteria called mycoplasma, which attacks a pet’s red blood cells. Fleas are an intermediate host for tapeworm, an intestinal parasite. If your pet happens to swallow a flea while grooming, they can become infected with tapeworm. Fleas take several blood meals a day, feeding for 3-4 hours at a time. Pets with heavy burdens of fleas, especially young and small animals, can develop a potentially life threatening anemia. Flea Allergy Dermatitis is a skin infection caused by flea bites. Symptoms of FAD include severe itchiness, redness, bumps, crusts, and pimples on the skin, and hair loss. Fleas can also transmit the plague and Cat Scratch Disease, which are known to effect people. Even if fleas do not make your pet sick, they can lead to extreme discomfort.

Can I get fleas from my pet?
Fleas' preference for a host are dogs, cats, rabbits, ferrets, and other animals. Although they will bite humans while searching for a meal, they typically do not live on people. 

Environmental Enrichment for Your Cat

Most indoor cats in the United States live under-enriched lives. While they are often cared for and loved, their natural instincts are often ignored. When keeping cats as pets, consideration must be given to a cat’s natural instincts and behaviors. It’s important to know that under-enriched (bored) cats often become stressed, which can lead to behavioral problems such as urine marking, house soiling, fighting among household cats, aggression, and excessive grooming.

A recent study showed that even well-fed free roaming cats spend an average of 3.6 hours hunting. That’s 15% of their day that they hunt, not because they need food, but because that’s what cats do! So, it’s going to benefit your cat (and you) to enrich your cat’s indoor environment. Proper enrichment should take into consideration all of the cat’s senses: sight, hearing, smell, taste, and touch. An average cat spends 9.5 hours sleeping (~40%) and 5.3 hours (22%) resting.  Note that resting is different than sleeping.  When a cat is resting, it is observing its environment using different senses including sight, hearing, and smell.

Each cat in the household should have adequate areas to rest and hide within its core area. The spaces should be high enough and/or sheltered enough that the cat can feel safe. A good rule of thumb is to have two types of resting spaces (i.e., one sheltered, one high) per cat in each area of the home. These spaces can be as complex as a floor-to-ceiling cat tree or as simple as a cardboard box.

A cat’s sense of smell can be stimulated with catnip, cat grasses, and pheromones (Feliway.)   Another way to increase a cat’s olfactory and visual enrichment is to walk him on a harness. While most cats do not take to harness walking initially, when they are able to associate it with the reward of going outside, they often adjust.

Scratching is a normal, and necessary, cat behavior.  When a cat is scratching it is leaving a visual and scent signal, as well as conditioning the nails and removing the cuticle, and stretching the forelimbs.  Some cats prefer vertical surfaces, while others may prefer horizontal.  Scratching posts also come made with different materials, such as carpet, cardboard, or rope and your cat may prefer one texture over another.  Be sure to provide your cat with plenty of designated scratching areas to allow an appropriate outlet for this natural behavior in order to save your furniture.

Most indoor cats do not have adequate opportunity to hunt. In order to harness the cat’s natural desire to hunt, it is strongly recommended that he hunt or “work” for his food. This can be accomplished by dividing the cat’s daily ration and feeding him in multiple places in the house; hiding food under the couch, coffee table, rugs, etc. and feeding him from interactive food toys such as the “Twist ‘N Treat,” the "Fish Bowl," or the “Egg•Cersizer” (PetSafe).

Structured play sessions and training sessions (yes, cats CAN be trained to do tricks!) can also be very beneficial in that they help to dissipate energy and direct the cat’s natural predatory behavior toward an appropriate target. Since cats get bored easily, owners should keep a wide variety of toys on had and rotate them so that the cat receives a different set of toys every few days. Toys don’t have to be expensive or high tech.

Examples of cat toys include:

 ♦ a ping pong ball in a bathtub or box
 ♦ plastic rings from milk jugs
 ♦ feather dancers
 ♦ toys on wands
 ♦ Panic Mouse
 ♦ Feline Frolic
 ♦ balled up pieces of paper
 ♦ a laser pointer*
 ♦ catnip mice/balls
 ♦ balls with bells
 ♦ aquarium stocked with fish
 ♦ toys that move or make noises




 *One word of caution with laser pointers. Some cats may become very aggressive when playing with these toys, especially if they are not able to “finish” the predatory sequence and “kill” something. To remedy this, owners should always point the laser at a toy that the cat can “kill” before they turn the toy off.

With proper attention to the environment, indoor cats can live as enriched a life as an outdoor cat while enjoying the health benefits and longevity of an indoor cat. What will you do with your cat today?